"Baron Von Schwein" 120 Gallon Horizontal Tank RF Build. QVIEW!

sunman76 · Sep 30, 2011

I used 1" wide 1/8" thk flat strap on mine.

fabguy1 · Sep 30, 2011

I used 2"x 3/16" flat for my door trim. (its what I had on hand) I also used my ring roller to curve the metal to fit the door. if you dont have one, you should be able to just tack weld one end of the trim and form it around the door by hand. Tack weld as you pull it around. Leave the piece a few inches longer than needed, it will make it easier to get it pulled all the way around. Then just trim off the extra with a cut off wheel.

gmasterpfautz · Oct 1, 2011

Progress! We tackled a daunting hurdle today and cut out the opening for the firebox to attach to the main chamber. This part was definitely harder then we thought it was going to be. We had some trouble figuring out how to replicate the shape that needed to be cut so in solidworks we inverted the cut so the cutout was left instead of the tank. Then we used reference planes to create a cross section at a few different locations. Finally we used these cross sections to build the jig shown below then cut with the plasma cutter. This got us started but there was a lot of... grind and check... which involved lifting the firebox into place over and over.

smokey mo · Oct 1, 2011

Boy that fit in there very nicely. Well done. You will not be disappointed with the reverse flow concept. My 500gal trailer beast keeps temps with in about 8-14 degrees left to right and top to bottom. If you put it on a trailer you can use the tongue jack to help control airflow and dial it right in. Cant wait to see this one coming together.

Well done boys.

rubbin butts · Oct 2, 2011

Great job, the only drawback I can see is when you are tending to the Q, your right leg will be just about against the fire box.

Don't want any unexpected burns.

Not criticizing, just offering my friendly opinion, but you know what they say about opinions.

Anyway, didn't know if you were aware of it.

subvet · Oct 2, 2011

One way to shape your trim is to bend it around your smaller tank. When it springs back a little, it should be about the right size for your larger tank. The width is really your preference of appearance. 1" by 1/8 th would be adequate, unless your cuts are really nasty, then I would go with 1 1/2" by 1/8 th. You really don't need 3/16, it just adds extra weight. Even if you put a counter weight on the door, you might want to be mindful of the overall weight because it all adds up. If this is going to be a stationary cooker, who cares, but if it will be a mobile pit, all of the extra weight comes into play with moving it by hand or towing it long distances. When trailer mounted, keep in mind that you will be hauling wood, charcoal, coolers, tables, canopies, cooking tools, etc.

Also, Rubbin Butts has a good point about the safety issue with you firebox location. You might need to put an expanded steel guard near there to keep your leg safe.

briankinlaw · Oct 3, 2011

WoW... looks like you are off to a great start! I like the nice clean cuts you made. It's gonna turn out great, keep up the fine work.

sunman76 · Oct 4, 2011

looking good brothers

alelover · Oct 4, 2011

Looks great. Fits perfectly.

gmasterpfautz · Oct 8, 2011

It's an allusion! It didn't fit perfectly but it all worked out. I did the initial cut and some trimming with the plasma cutter. Took a little too much off since I am still learning. By the end of the day I had it down pretty good as long as I propped myself against something as I cut. I was able to fill in the gaps with the weld.

Today wasn't too interesting but still got some stuff done. Got the firebox welded to the main chamber and cut the inlet between them.

I also learned why people say not to try welding upside down. Getting showered with molten metal and having the weld drip down isn't very fun. Live and learn right?!

Any advice on what we should do next Saturday? Drip pan, firebox door, main door trim, counterweight, firebox grate, ash tray, find a trailer..... dang that list is long!

gmasterpfautz · Oct 8, 2011

I guess we need to burn it out soon don't we?

michael ark · Oct 8, 2011

teesquare · Oct 9, 2011

Sorry - I was not ignoring you intentionally....

Believe it or not - I have seen lots of the tubular rib box designs on Craig's List. You may need to search a few of the large BBQ areas of the country - ( Txas cities, Kansas City area...so on ) but you will see the pics that help with the description.

Best of Luck!

T

domapoi · Oct 9, 2011

Done a lot of welding upside down on board ships in ship yards. If you get yourself a good set of leathers, shield and a bib for the shield there should be no problem with the slag and molten metal drips. If you are planning to make more of these you might want to invest in some of these items.

subvet · Oct 9, 2011

gmasterpfautz said:
I guess we need to burn it out soon don't we?

Don't be in a hurry to burn it in. That can wait until the end. When I burn in new cookers, I spray the whole interior with cooking spray and heat it up to about 350* to 400*. You will never cook this hot, but it will cure and seal the inside like treating a cast iron skillet.

gmasterpfautz · Oct 9, 2011

subvet said:
Don't be in a hurry to burn it in. That can wait until the end. When I burn in new cookers, I spray the whole interior with cooking spray and heat it up to about 350* to 400*. You will never cook this hot, but it will cure and seal the inside like treating a cast iron skillet.

Great advice! Should we not be concerned about the residue inside of the tanks? I would think the direct flames would help to burn it off but an indirect burn even at high temp would not. Just curious. Thanks subvet!

gmasterpfautz · Oct 9, 2011

teesquare said:
Sorry - I was not ignoring you intentionally....

Believe it or not - I have seen lots of the tubular rib box designs on Craig's List. You may need to search a few of the large BBQ areas of the country - ( Txas cities, Kansas City area...so on ) but you will see the pics that help with the description.

Best of Luck!

T

Did a quick search in the Austin, Texas craiglist on smokers and got an idea. We have a 16" vertical propane tank that we grabbed for $10 along with the others. Thought we could mount it on the back of the main chamber and when in use direct the heat into the rib/warming box. Thoughts?

tom c · Oct 9, 2011

Awesome build..

picobrew · Oct 10, 2011

Warning! I burned some brush in my 500gallon smoker to 'burn it out' - and created enough heat to warp the big door slightly. Not recommended!

Do the cooking oil ad heat from the fire box.

I made my fire box from a 100g propane tank - but cut my door in the side - like your warmer. Be sure that the door opening in the fire box is reinforced to prevent warping before you build a fire.

Mine was not and for now I use folded aluminum foil as a temperary 'gasket' around the fire box door - till I get around to building a new firebox.

I like your warmer - but it may need a vent or a stack to draw heat into that chamber.

subvet · Oct 10, 2011

gmasterpfautz said:
Great advice! Should we not be concerned about the residue inside of the tanks? I would think the direct flames would help to burn it off but an indirect burn even at high temp would not. Just curious. Thanks subvet!

Here is a 275 gallon oil tank that I mucked out 6” of sludge from. I used kitty litter to soak up the oil and then I scrubbed it out with Simply Green. I burned it in the way I described earlier. As evidence of no residual flavor impartation, we have won a dessert contest, 3[sup]rd[/sup] place in Iron Chef, and 3[sup]rd[/sup] and 6[sup]th[/sup] in brisket (KCBS). We have also served over one thousand people our food via catering and festival vending. No one has ever complained of an “oil or fuel” flavor in our food. When you seal it with the cooking oil it makes a barrier between the steel and inside. I would imagine it would become an issue if you cook above your burn in temp.

"Baron Von Schwein" 120 Gallon Horizontal Tank RF Build. QVIEW!

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