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Newbie attempting to build a 100 gal propane tank RF - Page 2

post #21 of 73

Were you located at? welder.gif

post #22 of 73
Thread Starter 

In Virgina just 30 mile outside of Washington DC. Would you like to join my build? I just can't wait to start cooking and eating and eat some more. My neighbors ask me when it's going to be ready every time they see me working on it.

post #23 of 73

You need to put your location in your profile. It can help when answering questions.

post #24 of 73
Thread Starter 
Thanks alelover. I thought I did. I'll fix that
post #25 of 73

be sure to clean out your tank very well my pop lives in fla and there were some people getting sick from smoking meat in uncured propane tanks

something gets into the metal then leaches out into the food while cooking

i would say burn it out after you cut doors in it make a good hot fire in it

with wood and burn it hot


post #26 of 73
Thread Starter 

I just crossed off another item on my supply list, too bad it comes with whats on top. Now i either have to pay the dump to take it or cut it up in little pieces because its just the hull.  Can anyone give me other ideas of what to do with it after i finish my build? Should i add an outboard to it biggrin.gif.



post #27 of 73

list it on craigslist for free to get rid of it

post #28 of 73
Thread Starter 

Need some more advise please. I've finally added the hinges and cut the door free. Now i need to clean it out. there seems to be this oily residue coating the inside.  Should light i fire inside the tank and will it warp the door and the tank?  i read on an earlier post that guys did not recommend it. Help.


By the way i wound up taking a circular saw to the jet ski and cut it all up to take it to the dump. My HOA was coming after me and i couldn't borrow a truck to haul it away.  I made a mistake of not wearing long clothing, paid for that mistake for 3 days worth of fiberglass splinters.

post #29 of 73
Originally Posted by Fourthwind View Post

If your going to do a rattle can paint job, then the VHT sherwan Williams will work great.  If your spraying, then again the sherwan williams is great stuff but harder to aquire in non rattle can quantities.  The rustoleum 1200° stuff is real easy to get a hold of. (and a LOT cheaper) Most lowes and Home depot carry it in the quart size in Satin finish and it works well.  Note:  the rustoleum in the rattle can is very flat and does not hold up near as well as the spray on. 

Ditto on the VHT, just get a clear coat as well.

post #30 of 73
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by SQWIB View Post

Ditto on the VHT, just get a clear coat as well.

I was just looking at the VHT flame proof paint. it says that it need curing time and a 3 step heat process. Is that necessary?

post #31 of 73

If you want it to work. Yes.

post #32 of 73
Originally Posted by alelover View Post

If you want it to work. Yes.

Yep and if you skip this step the paint stays soft.

post #33 of 73
Thread Starter 

New progress kind of. It seems like it's always one step forward 2 two steps back.


I final burned it out with no major warping that i can tell

Burn out.JPG


the trailer went through some major sugary


Whats left of trailer.JPGBack together.JPG


I manage to weld the tank on top of the trailer



Mistake #1.JPG



Now that I've done all this. I realized that the tank is way too far back and the fire box is soooooo heavy that i'm going to have some big issues with weight distribution and the tank is sitting about 3 " hire than that i wanted (didn't compensate for new taller wheel and tire combo).  I need some guidance PLEASE!!!!    I was thinking about cutting the tank off and starting over or just cutting  the bottom part of the legs off about 3" and adding a new cross member.





post #34 of 73

I would flip it around and have the fire box on the front side. Right side in the pic. This would help the weight distribution I would think.

post #35 of 73

Looks great!!

post #36 of 73
I'd recommend moving the axle over the springs to start with.
That'll drop your frame about 3 inches and it'll ride more stable.

You could put a storage box on the tongue of the frame and that'll counterbalance the firebox.
post #37 of 73

yeah wow man that looks awsome


i agree with putting the axel on top of the springs that will lower it a

good bit


and if its still to high just cut it loose from the frame

and move it forward a bit  you can always grind the frame

to clean it up

post #38 of 73

You will get the best advice on building your smoker. I had no clue and these MEN help me out so much . Good luck

post #39 of 73

I was wondering why put the smoker is on legs at all. Why not put directly on the trailer. It looks like the center of gravity will be quite high. That things going to want to roll when you go around corners which will put much more torsional stress on the tongue and the hitch.

post #40 of 73

In my opinion... your trailer is too short and you need to remove the axle and spring mounts and install/weld some 2,3, or 4 inch square tube on the underside of the frame on the back half and mount your spring hangers on some 2 inch angle and bolt the angle through the side to the added square tubing and make the axle adjustable forward and back. This would raise the trailer and lower the center of gravity and you could set where you want it and get rid of those legs......see how my boat axle is. I dont have the extra tubing welded on like i explained but i hope this gave you some ideas...... I noticed my axel mounts arent even bolted... just held by the ubolts.....huh...




Good luck

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