I have the exact mods on order. Getting ready to do some smoking soon. I'm curious how he attached the extension?
Brinkmann Trailmaster Limited Edition - Page 38
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I used a 4" Dryer starter collar and a 4" hose clamp to hold the flexible vent onto the collar.
OK - I have read many different opinions on what you should use for sealing up the fire box (and other pieces)...with many talking about using Rutland 500 degree application, but I know the fire box will burn at LEAST around 650 degrees. I have found a few different options, but wasn't sure about whether or not it mattered if something dried hard or not?
I found a fireplace mortar that says it can be used in applications up to 2,000 degrees. I am still trying to find out more on the food safety side, but the drying is more my question for now as most of what I find that can support the heat on the firebox talks about drying hard as a rock!? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
Once again - you can get USDA approved food safe high temp silicon sealer that will go to at least 600 degrees. I got mine from eBay inexpensively. You can get small tubes or in caulking gun size. I have used it on three Smokers and it works great. For the lids - I put on a decent 1/4 inch or so bead, then line the other side with wax [paper and lower the lid. The silicon forms itself to the lid, the wax paper peels off easily and voila a custom leak proof long lasting gasket.
For in-between the fire box halves and where the firebox connects to the cooking chamber, i have the rope gasket and it works perfectly, no leaks whatsoever. and as far as the lid, once you get it up to temp i don't see a reason to have a seal around the lid there are no leaks for me.
Yes, I am talking about the in between the fire box halves, not the lids. Was it the rope gasket that comes with a tube of adhesive? Something like what was mentioned earlier from here: http://www.bbqsmokermods.com/product-p/fbr-pl-125-625-rtv.htm
I just don't want to use something that burns away in between the fire box halves so that I have to replace it! :) I live in the Northeast (limited time to smoke anyway) and I am lazy so taking it apart and re-doing anything would be a bummer!
The high temp caulk will do the trick with no disassembly. I have done it on both of mine and easy, no leaks. You can even paint it (spray) to match grill if desired. On mine, the amount of leakage between the lid and body of the grill is too minor to bother with. Good luck!
Getting ready to put my Oklahoma Joe Longhorn together today. I have been trying to find the best method for sealing in between the two fire box halves, but having found nothing perfect it occurred to me - why don't I just have it welded and be permanent. Is there some reason that this would be a bad idea? I haven't heard anyone suggest it on here is what makes me ask, but hoping it will be a good move?? Thanks in advance for any feedback!!
Once again - you can get USDA approved food safe high temp silicon sealer that will go to at least 600 degrees. I got mine from eBay inexpensively. You can get small tubes or in caulking gun size. I have used it on three Smokers and it works great. You can apply before you attaché the SFB, or seal it after. Cheaper than welding. Interested to find out how that goes and cost.