Newb

[fourthwind]

I've seem automatic feed on pellet burners. I've never thought about on a stick burner. I guess if all the wood was roughly the same size it could work. I'll have to put some thought into that. Until then that's what the kids are for.

What he is talking about with gravity feed is a charcoal chute like some stand up charcoal units use. 

In my experiance once you learn how to load the firebox, you can get extended burn times without the necessity of this.  You can also use electronic "stoker" devices which use small fans and computers to force feed the inlet air at a controlled rate to maintain the temps at your desired levels.  I have talked to several competition smokers that stopped using those however because the pulsing air action increased the amount of ash getting to their food, and their scores started dropping.  These were not reverse flow units but standard flow smokers though.  Reverse flow smokers may not see an issue due to the extended amount of time it takes the air to reach the food.

 

[solaryellow]

Can you tell me about this and how it works please
 

It actually seems fairly simple. You would have to cut your wood to smaller pieces but load up a large chute of them that is airtight at the top, start your fire, and let gravity do the rest. The stoker would be to control air flow and thus temps.

http://i552.photobucket.com/albums/jj340/jerry516planes/Gravity Feed Conversion/Nine/DSC05144.jpg

http://i552.photobucket.com/albums/jj340/jerry516planes/ten/DSC05146.jpg

http://i552.photobucket.com/albums/jj340/jerry516planes/Double Stack Finished/DSC05234.jpg
 

I've seem automatic feed on pellet burners. I've never thought about on a stick burner. I guess if all the wood was roughly the same size it could work. I'll have to put some thought into that. Until then that's what the kids are for.

Here is an offset that was built with a gravity feed. http://www.phpbbserver.com/phpbb/vi...days=0&postorder=asc&start=0&mforum=smokinjim

 

[solaryellow]

What he is talking about with gravity feed is a charcoal chute like some stand up charcoal units use. 

In my experiance once you learn how to load the firebox, you can get extended burn times without the necessity of this.   You can also use electronic "stoker" devices which use small fans and computers to force feed the inlet air at a controlled rate to maintain the temps at your desired levels.  I have talked to several competition smokers that stopped using those however because the pulsing air action increased the amount of ash getting to their food, and their scores started dropping.  These were not reverse flow units but standard flow smokers though.  Reverse flow smokers may not see an issue due to the extended amount of time it takes the air to reach the food.

Teach me! I haven't figured this out yet and would love to know fourthwind.

 

[fourthwind]

Every smoker is different, and some quite honestly will not do it due to the design, but with a good coal bed you can "load" the firebox with wood and extend the time between fuel loads.   It takes practice and knowing your pit, but I can get 2 to 3 hours on a set of sticks.  Now unless you have a smoker large enough to run full splits, you will need to do your loading with fine splits or the plan will not work.  It will also depend on the type and quality of the wood.  Hardwoods like oak seem to work best.  Most folks also overload the firebox with wood that is too large, and the large pieces soak up too much energy instead of releasing it.  If I really want to set and forget, I use a minion basket or "snake basket"  with a good quality charcoal and I can get 4 to 5 hours without adding fuel.  Honestly I am too much of a control freak to leave the meat and smoker un attended during the night anyhow when I am in competition mode.  Of course with my reverse flow units you don't really need to anyhow.  I dont start cooking until 3:30 to 4 AM at a comp.    My typical Brisket or Pork butt is 8 hours on the reverse flow at 225° to 230°

 

[solaryellow]

I think I get it. It is more or less a minion method but using splits instead. With the coals being on the bottom, do you get a fairly clean burn when overloading the firebox?

 

[bbower1]

I think I'm having information overload.  Where do you get the calculations from?  Is it part of this E-course, or do you need to be an engineer?  While I love suggestions, I would also want to know why things are certain sizes.  Just for my own knowledge.  I have read so much, I am afraid to make the first cut, for fear I will ruin the tank.  I have looked at pictures and read, but is there a place in the forums specifically for where to cut doors, how to find firebox size, and how long to make the RF plates ETC.?

 

[bbower1]

 

[venture]

Welcome aboard!

Good luck and good smoking.

 

[bbower1]

 

[fourthwind]

I think I get it. It is more or less a minion method but using splits instead. With the coals being on the bottom, do you get a fairly clean burn when overloading the firebox?

Yes, I get a clean burn.  The key is not having wood splits that are too large for the smoker.  If your not getting a clean burn then go to smaller splits (Diameter wise)

I think I'm having information overload.  Where do you get the calculations from?  Is it part of this E-course, or do you need to be an engineer?  While I love suggestions, I would also want to know why things are certain sizes.  Just for my own knowledge.  I have read so much, I am afraid to make the first cut, for fear I will ruin the tank.  I have looked at pictures and read, but is there a place in the forums specifically for where to cut doors, how to find firebox size, and how long to make the RF plates ETC.?

there are a few excel or website calculators  out there, and the basic calculations work well.   The calculations are based on creating a good draft through the system.  A little bit of math behind it, but the calculators do that for you.  The doors are pretty much where you want them.  I put the bottom of the door about 2 inches above the RF plate.  The RF plate sit's just on top of the cut out between the firebox and cook chamber.  it goes the full length except for the gap which I gave you in my other post.    Firebox size is in that post too.  =)

 

[bbower1]

New question on the smoker build.  I am considering putting a vertical smoker box on the end of the smoker as well.  How will this effect the rf plate etc.  I also may add one on top of the firebox, but not necessarily allowing heat and smoke to enter this side.  It will be more or less a warming box.  Any input.  I have new pictures to add here shortly.

 

[fourthwind]

I have seen plans where people have put diverter plates for warming boxes on the RF plate end, but have never done one like that myself.  We install them on top of the firebox, but you will want to put about 2 inches of insulation between the firebox and the bottom plate of the warming box.  You will also want to put a fresh air went on the side of the box to control temps.  You can put a butterfly valve between the cook chamber and the warming box for heat and smoke to flow through the box so that you can cook in it as well.   Make sure you install an exhaust  stack on the warming box that is equal in diameter as the one on the main cook chamber.

 

[bbower1]

Thanks Fourthwind for your input.  Earlier you sent me exhaust sizes per my tank size.  you meantioned either a 10" or a 8" exhaust.  Could I put two 4" on the same end to make an equivalent of a 8" pipe?  The reason im asking, is how i cut my door a 8" would prevent me from having a extra shelf due to the size, but two 4" pipes could come down beside it.

 

[fourthwind]

Unfortunatelty the area of two 4's does not equal one 8 when it comes to pipe.  I would go with dual 5" at about 50 to 60 inches in length each.  Going to make for a tall stack!

 

[bbower1]

I am really considering scrapping this project and starting a new one.  The tank is just too fat (48")  when i cut the door, its too tall to open all the way...and im not even on a trailer yet.  I am not sure if i should cut a foot off the bottom, and weld a flat plate, or just find a thinner tank thats longer.  Any suggestions?

 

[fourthwind]

I would put a counter weight on it so that the door opens to where you need it.  Once you have the balance right so the door doesnt need to swing farther than arms reach, you put a stop under the weight. 

 

[bbower1]

I have already took that into consideration.  That would be a must.  Just wasnt sure if making the tank smaller would provide any benefit.

 

[sunman76]

smaller tank, you get a smaller firebox and stack...  That will be alot of welding

 

[bigtrain74]

My biggest thing is to always have fun! If your getting frusterated what is the point? Even if it is the worst you made, it is probably the best any of your friends ever had!

 

[SmokinAl]

   Glad to have you with us!