New build need some advice.

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ah yes s it does work great for cold smoking, with the mailbox mod, which also requires extra space, my statement is regarding to the AMPS being used in the smoker itself.
 
I have the Smoke Daddy cold smoker as well. Works great for smoking cheese as well as supplemental smoke for cooks when desired
 
Hey Mike how much did that vinyl wrap cost ya if you don't mind me asking? I do want to do something to the outside either vinyl wrap or paint. Do you think automobile paint is over kill?
 
i didn't pay for the vinyl wrap, the guy who I built the smoker looked after it, but I was quoted at one point and for a basic vinyl with 3M auto vinyl (the toughest of the vinyls) it was going to be anywhere from $250- $400 depending on the colour.

I used tremclad (also known as rustoleum) oil based metal rust proof paint on my 1st build, I primed it and then applied it with a roller in several coats. It is bullet proof. Polished up really nice. Though I will thin it out a little next time to allow thinner coats that dry and cure a little faster. The oil based metal paint takes months to fully cure even in the summer. So too many thick layers too close together can make the cure time take for eeeevvver.

Ill paint me next build again, the vinyl looks great, but much more $$ than the paint and cant be touched up if it gets scuffed.
 
Alrighty I got to working again I sanded the fridge down put a little primer on for now. I ordered everything I need except for the gasket. Seems like the place to go for that is mcmasters. I think I am going to go with some of this stuff here.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#tadpole-gaskets/=zvfvzs

After reading up I changed from the smoke daddy to the A-MAZE-N-PELLET-SMOKER 5X8 Tray. I think I am going to do the mail box mod and hang it on the side of the fridge or mount under the fridge, haven't figured that part out yet.

I am stopping at a sheet metal place tomorrow to get a price on some stainless steel sheets so I can cover the door and box.

Still undecided on the top vent on what I want to do with that or what size. Any thoughts on that?

On this door it is not really flat and has a healthly lip and ridge. Do I need to flatten that out some how or just attach enough sheet metal to fit in that grove and not cover whole door?


 
Re hang the door and see what the gap is... You may need to add a wood strip to fill in the space... then you can sheet it in.... There is a method to get the door in plane so it seals... cross the door with string in an X pattern, shim the corners until the strings just touch in the center... then you will be assured the door seals...

This has pictures....
http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2013/08/09/problem-free-prefit-doors/
 
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When I built fridge smokers, I used cold rolled steel about 20 gauge or thinner... then oiled like you would cast iron...
 
Can I oil it and bake it in the smoker? I dont think the piece I will need for the door will fit in my oven. I am assuming you mean oil it up bake it then oil again and bake again correct?
 
Yep.... spray veggie oil works.... I would do the inside and outside of the sheet... just so it doesn't rust inside the door...

Did that link make sense on fitting the inside door skin ???
 
Yes and no. There is a grove on the door where I can put the sheet metal in to fit where the plastic use to be. But then there will be a good 1/2 section that won't have sheet metal so gotta figure that out. Once I get home today I will read that link again. I get the concept just gotta get the process down.

I am going to the metal place today so sheet of 20g cold steel 4x10 runs 65 so not to bad. I will check out stainless and if it to much more might just go with that to make it a little easier.
 
Hey guys so I finally got around to finishing up the build with the help of my grandfather who basically changed the idea around but still came out pretty good. Only issue I am having is it takes this thing a good 2 hours or more to get up to 230℉ is that normal? I had auto tune running for like 5 hours but don't think it ever finished. I am using the finned strip heater and the auber dual probe with it at 65% output. Any ideas?



 
If the finned strip heater is tight against the back of the smoker....  heat maybe is being lost through transfer to the smoker lining...   think about standing it off an 1" or 2" so the heat will transfer to the air in the smoker... If you have an infra red non contact thermometer, check the temperature of the fin strip heater when it's operating..   maybe 65% is too low....  darned if I know...  Is the door an airtight seal...   how many and how big are the air inlets and outlets....
 
I got a good 3 inch clearance around the finned strip heater. I know the seal around the door is air tight, that gasket needs some serious compression to get closed. I guess I am going to have to try around with the auber some more this weekend.

One thing I did notice from the moment I start it, it powers on for like 3 seconds then shuts off then back on. It is constantly cycling up to the temp does that sound right?
 
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What did you do for paint?  I am contemplating my options for my own fridge...
 
What did you do for paint?  I am contemplating my options for my own fridge...

Just used a blue oil based paint we sprayed on then once it dried taped it off and just used a high gloss can of white spray paint. Originally I wanted to use auto paint but the quote I got just for the paint was like 300 dollars.
 
Yeah, I know that feeling!  

I have been looking at auto paints for mine.  Got to check locally,  but summit racing has some fairly reasonable.  Not cheap mind you, but decent enough.
 
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