Digital temp and propane conversion

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Mornin mw-smoke, I did a little research on your components and this is what I found:
From the honeywell site:


VR8200A2132/U
24 Vac, Standard Opening, Standing Pilot Gas Valve with 1/2 in. x 1/2 in. inlet\outlet


Find Equivalent or Replacement Products.






Product InfoLiteratureAccessories & Replacement PartsOverview
Gas valves for use in 24 Vac, gas-fired, standing pilot appliances with capacities from 20 to 200 cfh.

Features

•Gas valves include manual valve, two automatic operators, servo pressure regulator and pilot adjustment.
•Compact size.
•Provide two automatic valves.
•Solenoid-operated first automatic valve opens on thermostat call for heat; closes when call for heat ends.
•Diaphragm-operated second automatic valve opens under control of regulator; closes if gas or power supply is interrupted.
•Meet codes requiring dual safety shutoff.
•Natural to LP and LP to Natural conversion kits available for standard and slow opening gas valves.
•LITE-RITE (OFF-PILOT-ON) lighting sequence.
•All adjustments, wiring connections and pilot outlet are accessible from top of control.
•Adjustable servo regulator effectively maintains almost constant gas output pressure under wide fluctuations in gas supply pressure.
•Compatible with ECO connector.

From this I interpret you need 24Vac to open the main gas suply from this valve to your burner. From your picture I believe you will need to move the pilot light assembly so the burner is not between the pilot flame and the pilot flame capillary sensor.

From what i could find on your controller:

Display: Dual display for Fahrenheit (F) and Celsius (C)
•Range: -1999 to 9999 (depends on the input signal)
•Main Output: Relay,Normal open, AC 250V/3A DC 30V/3A COSφ=1
• PID cooling/heating control( can choose normal alarm output by software)
•Alarm Output: 1 RELAY: capacity AC 250V/3A DC 30V/3A
• 7 different Dual Output combinations with: high / low / high deviation / low deviation /interval / out of interval / breakage alarm
•Accuracy: 0.3%
•Input: Thermo Resistor: PT100, Cu50
•Thermocouple: J,S,K,E,Wre3 ~ Wre25
•Dimension: 1/16 (48mmX48mmX80mm)
•Weight: about 150g
•Individually programmable PID control parameters.
P, I, d, controlling period, digital filter coefficient, and more… (for control theory experts only)
•SSR control ready to connect
external Solid State Relay to handle High current. Applications.
•Compact design:
DIN 1/16, great form-factor to be included/build-in to your product.

If you look at the Main Output it is a relay it is a Normal open relay{a relay is nothing more than a switch}. I am very sure that this controller does not suply power to this relay and that it will require external power suplied to terminal 3 and out terminal 4.

That being said your control valve operates on 24Vac you are going to need a 120Vac to 24Vac stepdown transformer. I saw one on amazon for $25 but you should be able to get one localy at any HVAC parts suply. You would suply 120Vac to the transformer and then run one side of the transformer out to terminal 3 then terminal 4 would wire to your gas valve the other lead from the transformer would wire straight to the gas valve.

.
Yes, external power must be supplied to activate the relay. Sausage maker sells a 24vac transformer which uses 120v input. You pug it into a wall outlet and voila-you have 24Vac power to your controller relay.
 
Hi smokers, I’m thinking of automating my natural gas fridge smoke. I have been reading this older post and wondering if the electronics have become better or easier to install. I would definitely like your ideas or opinions on how to convert and connect a controller to a gas valve. Maybe someone has a parts list on what’s needed for the conversion?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
 

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