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Tent Stove Build Input needed

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sqwib

sqwib

Smoking Guru
Original poster
OTBS Member
Sep 25, 2007
5,962
1,034
Philadelphia
I am in need of assistance again for another build.

This is for a woodburning stove for Winter Tent Camping. This will be used in a 11x20 tent on our Mancamp trip Next February to Green Ridge State Park, so I have some time.

I will be using a 40lb Fork Lift Propane bottle

I want to do a flat top but I am afraid of too much welding, the flat top would be for cooking and coffee and stuff.

These are not my photos.

Wood_Tent_Stove_6.JPG

Wood_Tent_Stove_6.JPG


I may just weld on a flat piece on top of the radius.

004-2.jpg

004-2.jpg


stove-1.jpg

stove-1.jpg


or something like this

IMG_5107.jpg

IMG_5107.jpg


The front would be designed like this one, keeping it simple

hqdefault.jpg

hqdefault.jpg


there would be a bottom piece for insulation instead of sand.

Cylinder_Stoves_3.jpg

Cylinder_Stoves_3.jpg


a grate would be above to allow airflow.

hqdefault.jpg

hqdefault.jpg


stack would be 4" sections stored inside stove, legs would be 1/2" threaded black pipe that screw into threaded caps or connectors that will be welded to the bottom.

I will nee a baffle that sits below the stack hole so the heat has to go around the hole to exit, of course I will need a damper on the pipe and a spark arrestor.

I was thinking about a Stack robber, but the jury is still out on that one.

robber1.jpg

robber1.jpg


I can buy a cheapo for 65 or 70 bucks, but rather build a quality one customized to what I want.

41kiSItvMTL.jpg

41kiSItvMTL.jpg

 
Last edited:
We have one of the cheaper, but not the super cheap ones. Having a flat top on it is a big plus. Or 12x16 tent gets cooking hot. Everything fits in the stove or folds up around the stove so that's nice. Honestly I would not want a stack robber. I prefer to keep some clothing on when camping with my guy friends! We also have the hot water reservoir which is nice to have too. Ours gets too hot to cook anything but water on, unless its just down to coals. So a heavier top plate or some sort of thermal diffuser would be good if you plan on cooking anything except blackened food...
 
dirtsailor2003 said:
 
We have one of the cheaper, but not the super cheap ones. Having a flat top on it is a big plus. Or 12x16 tent gets cooking hot. Everything fits in the stove or folds up around the stove so that's nice. Honestly I would not want a stack robber. I prefer to keep some clothing on when camping with my guy friends! We also have the hot water reservoir which is nice to have too. Ours gets too hot to cook anything but water on, unless its just down to coals. So a heavier top plate or some sort of thermal diffuser would be good if you plan on cooking anything except blackened food...
Click to expand...
Agreed on the flat top, I was thinking diffuser and/or a wider plate so you can just move the pot or pan to the side. Im looking into a hot water tank that goes against the stove pipe.
 
Hi SQWIB.  I can't speak to efficiency as I have never tried one but if you look on the ebay uk site you will find 50-60 of these.  Just search gas bottle woodburner.  Except for a couple novelty stoves all are vertical??  Couple of the sellers build many of these stoves.  Maybe they know something and maybe just trying to build cheaper and not better??  Just thought I'd mention.  Good luck.  Keep Smokin!

Danny
 
KC5TPY said:
Hi SQWIB.  I can't speak to efficiency as I have never tried one but if you look on the ebay uk site you will find 50-60 of these.  Just search gas bottle woodburner.  Except for a couple novelty stoves all are vertical??  Couple of the sellers build many of these stoves.  Maybe they know something and maybe just trying to build cheaper and not better??  Just thought I'd mention.  Good luck.  Keep Smokin!
Danny
Click to expand...
They are nice stoves an look pretty cool for a patio.
 
SQWIB, moring... I built a few camp stoves.... The design I liked best for extended camping... like 5 weeks at elk camp is below...

The clean out is for creosote build-up... The upper air inlet is to increase air flow up the flue, to move moisture from wet wood, hopefully, out the stack so it didn't drip inside the tent... the braces on the back of the stove top are to slide a water tank on and off the heat and to regulate the temp of the water... there are side mount tanks that work also... for legs, I welded couplings to the stove... used 1/2" electrical rigid conduit for legs and 5/8" all thread stubs on the bottom for adjusters... conduit is smooth inside and doesn't interfere with the all thread... plates welded on the all thread to support the stove... 5/8 nuts welded on the ends of the legs for adjusters... On my stove, the horizontal exhaust pipe went through the side wall of the tent and up.... I hung an air-gap piece of sheet metal on the rear supports for the water tank to deflect heat from the tent... it was aluminum... we filled the bottom of the stove with dirt from around camp to prevent stove burnout and reduce radiant heat to the floor.... 14 gauge for the body is about the thinnest you want to use... I used 3/16 for the top to reduce warping... reduce is the key word there....

http://www.kansaswindpower.net/wood_stove.htm


Check out Cabela's stoves...

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Colo...t=wood+stove&WTz_l=Header;Search-All+Products

Camp Stove.jpg

Camp Stove.jpg

 
Last edited:
I'll be watching to see what you decide on 

gary
 
DaveOmak said:
SQWIB, moring... I built a few camp stoves.... The design I liked best for extended camping... like 5 weeks at elk camp is below...

The clean out is for creosote build-up... The upper air inlet is to increase air flow up the flue, to move moisture from wet wood, hopefully, out the stack so it didn't drip inside the tent... the braces on the back of the stove top are to slide a water tank on and off the heat and to regulate the temp of the water... there are side mount tanks that work also... for legs, I welded couplings to the stove... used 1/2" electrical rigid conduit for legs and 5/8" all thread stubs on the bottom for adjusters... conduit is smooth inside and doesn't interfere with the all thread... plates welded on the all thread to support the stove... 5/8 nuts welded on the ends of the legs for adjusters... On my stove, the horizontal exhaust pipe went through the side wall of the tent and up.... I hung an air-gap piece of sheet metal on the rear supports for the water tank to deflect heat from the tent... it was aluminum... we filled the bottom of the stove with dirt from around camp to prevent stove burnout and reduce radiant heat to the floor.... 14 gauge for the body is about the thinnest you want to use... I used 3/16 for the top to reduce warping... reduce is the key word there....

http://www.kansaswindpower.net/wood_stove.htm


Check out Cabela's stoves...

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Colo...t=wood+stove&WTz_l=Header;Search-All+Products

Camp Stove.jpg

Camp Stove.jpg

Click to expand...
I really like the nesting pipes on that site.

Cabelas is out of the price range, rather put that $500 towards a wall tent.

Never thought of a cleanout, that's actually a no brainer, thanks. So you think I should put an inlet under the fire grate and above?

Also instead of dirt or sand, whats your thoughts on a removable plate that lines the bottom?

Im Jonsing for some pictures!!
 
That may be a while
icon_mrgreen.gif
 
One of the reasons most go with dirt or local sand is to reduce the amount of weight and or stuff one has to pack in. If you can drive right to your campsite and have room in your rig do whatever you want to do. If you are packing stuff into camp either hiking, mules, atv its best to have as little and as lite and as compact as possible gear. That is why most stoves everything packs into itself, or the stove itself is made to flatten out. For the type of hunting that we do 80% of the time a stove like your designing would work as we can usually drive within a few feet of our tent. The other 20% of the time we are miles away from our rigs and have to pack in. If you go with the tank, I would make it so the legs come off and stow inside the tanks with the pipe.
 
Also instead of dirt or sand, whats your thoughts on a removable plate that lines the bottom?


I stacked wood under mine and one evening it started to smolder, in went the dirt...... Bare, metal at those temps, will burn out pretty fast... You could try another piece of metal rolled to match the stove and weld 1/4" spacers to it for an air gap... The upper air inlet had a large V shaped piece of flexible metal attached to a flat piece that plugged the hole when not needed... it just slid into the tube that was welded to the hole... That was to prevent any smoke coming out a direct the cold air to the exhaust.....

Wish I had pics... sold all my stuff in late 90's...


Camp Stove2.jpg

Camp Stove2.jpg

 
dirtsailor2003 said:
 
One of the reasons most go with dirt or local sand is to reduce the amount of weight and or stuff one has to pack in. If you can drive right to your campsite and have room in your rig do whatever you want to do. If you are packing stuff into camp either hiking, mules, atv its best to have as little and as lite and as compact as possible gear. That is why most stoves everything packs into itself, or the stove itself is made to flatten out. For the type of hunting that we do 80% of the time a stove like your designing would work as we can usually drive within a few feet of our tent. The other 20% of the time we are miles away from our rigs and have to pack in. If you go with the tank, I would make it so the legs come off and stow inside the tanks with the pipe.
Click to expand...
This will be drive in sites no humping in anything.

For that we have regular tents and Mr. Buddy Heaters

Types of Camoing
  • RV Camping 32' trailer
  • Back Pack Camping / Canoe Camping, minimalist camping.
  • Regular tent camping in the winter (car camping) Cots, Larger Tents, Real food
  • We want to step it up a notch and go with walled tents and a woodburning stove for our winter trips.
The winter trips would be in state forests not parks or campgrounds

I have seriously thought about this but its 115 lbs...but the price is so good @ $169.00.

image_25679.jpg

image_25679.jpg

DaveOmak said:
Also instead of dirt or sand, whats your thoughts on a removable plate that lines the bottom?


I stacked wood under mine and one evening it started to smolder, in went the dirt...... Bare, metal at those temps, will burn out pretty fast... You could try another piece of metal rolled to match the stove and weld 1/4" spacers to it for an air gap... The upper air inlet had a large V shaped piece of flexible metal attached to a flat piece that plugged the hole when not needed... it just slid into the tube that was welded to the hole... That was to prevent any smoke coming out a direct the cold air to the exhaust.....

Wish I had pics... sold all my stuff in late 90's...


Camp Stove2.jpg

Camp Stove2.jpg

Click to expand...
I'll use sand, dirt or firebrick to be safe.

Hey Dave don't worry, your drawings look like photos anyhow...
biggrin.gif
 
Fashion a water tank that wraps around the back of that stove.... The back gets the hottest.... from my experience anyway.....

OR, for something fancy and fast hot water.... pull one of the lids and have a HW tank fashioned that slips down into the FB 2-3 inches... and have 18" sticking out with a spigot on it... flat bottom, it will sit when pulled out..... weld a flange so it will sit flat and air tight when heating water.... you could even add gasket material to insure it doesn't leak smoke.....

Hot water is cool to have..... I had a shower in my tent.... 5 gal. bucket with kitchen sink hose sprayer on it... pulleys to raise it up.... worked darn good....
 
Last edited:
I've seen some pretty neat pictures and ideas 

Gary
 
This is some pretty good info. Any input on the stack diameter sizing? I'm not worried about length as I can add length or shorten if needed.
Also any input on sectioning the stack so it can break down and fit inside. The inside depth will be about 22"
 
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